The birthplace of the sun, and back to winter

Hello again,

I promised you all a while ago that I'd tell you about the Isla del Sol, which was a side trip I took during my first week down here. My base point was Copacabana, Bolivia, which was a very cute little resort town with swan boats along the lake and actual coffee in multiple restaurants (you'll find that the presence of coffee will always be noticed in my blog. My head is aching for some of that good dark fix right now).

From Copacabana, it takes about an hour and a half by boat to reach the south end of Isla del Sol, and another half hour to get to the northern port of Challapampa. Inka legends said that the sun was born in this place, and the Tiwanaku before them built temples and made pilgrimages to this sacred island. I figured I had to see it for myself (and take a water sample from the sacred font at the south end of the island!).

I was dropped off at the north port, and then hiked to the ruins on the north end of the island (about 2km - no big whoop, except that the lake itself is at 3820m, or 12,500 ft, and the island springs up from there). The only way get to the south end, where most of the hostels are, is to hike down the spine of the island, another 7km - which includes at least two or three "hills" which top 13,500ft. There are no cars on the island - no horses for rent either (although this would be a fabulous business idea for someone). So, having been at altitude for 5 days, I set off towards the southern town of Yumani. About half way there, a brilliant local set up a little store that sold coca leaf tea - exactly what I was wishing for up there! I took a break and chatted with a woman from Ireland who was travelling with two guys from Brazil. We all communicated in Spanish, which was an adventure with the various accents involved.

The island itself is really eye-scorchingly beautiful (to coin a phrase used by my hubby). The spine of the island juts up steeply from the lake, with terraced fields marking the altitude and occasional sheep or alpaca or donkeys grazing nearby. The lake below is a deep, sapphire blue. Local children have set up their enterprises along the trail, selling rocks they've collected or sometimes little llamas woven out of tortora reed, or dressed up to pose for photos. I took a lot of pictures - a few of the kids, a lot of the ruins and the landscape, but curiously, fewer and fewer as the miles wore on...

When I finally made it to the town of Yumani, there was no energy left to go looking for the fountain - that would wait until the next day. Instead, I found a hostel with a lovely view of the neighboring island of the moon, and I crashed. Note to self - hiking at altitude requires acclimatization! Also a hat. A hat would have been helpful. Although I wore my sunglasses all day, my eyes were scorched by the brightness up there. It's no suprise that this place is thought to be the source of the sun. When I got to Puno, later the next day, I had to go find some eyedrops. After a week or so, my eyes were mostly back to normal. But still I find that they're a bit sensitive to bright light.

This will not be a problem where I am now. I'm in Lima, where winter has asserted itself. The sky is overcast, the weather is misty, and I don't expect to see the sun again for the next week and a half that I'm here. I'm back in my multiple layers and fuzzy hat and wool socks. Just yesterday, my cheeks were being kissed by the sun in the plaza of Moquegua. Peru is a land of contrasts.

I'm settling in here though. This time I'm staying in the Pueblo Libre district, near to the museum and the INC office. I dropped off my samples this afternoon, and got my to-do list for the additional information they'll require. Getting all of that typed up and assembled should keep me busy for tomorrow (at least).

For now, I'm one step closer to my plane ride home. As much as I love Peru, I'm feeling very ready to get back to my life in California. Just another 10 days to go here. I hope I can get my samples through in time!

Take care, my friends. Wear your hats in the sun!

I'll see you soon,

Karen